Interfacing is defined as a layer of fabric apparel fusible interlining fabric that lays between the facing and outer layer of a garment. Interfacing provides firmness, shape, or ‘body’ to a fabric, and strength and stability to edges. It is meant to add these qualities without adding bulk. Interfacing may also serve to conceal inner construction from showing through to the outside of a garment.Underlining is a separate layer cut with the same pattern pieces, and applied to the wrong side of each piece then handled as one during the construction process.
Underlining serves as a backing for sheer or lightweight fabrics, as a support for unstable fabrics, and even create beautiful seams. Underlining can change the drape of a fabric, and even render it almost wrinkle-resistant. Since we sometimes now use interfacing as an Underlining this will be covered in this class as well, as it relates to the topic. Interfacing is the bones. It is what gives a garment some structure and endurance. Too often, to march to the “Sew it Tonigh.
Wear it Tomorrow” drumme interfacing is completely left out of patterns even the very best patterns by top designers. In my opinion, this is a mistake. Just because a pattern does not call for interfacing is no reason to omit it. I am responsible for the end product that I am creating and only I know the specific fabric I am using. Don’t let any pattern dictate your interfacing choices learn all you can, ask for opinions, test and keep those test samples, and do what YOU feel is correct for your specific situation.
I recommend pre treating in the same manner in which the garment they become a part of will be washed. Most often, my stash yardage of these interfacings just gets tossed in with the appropriate color load of my regular clothes washing and drying. Press and label and store. If you happen to be considering a stitch-in tailoring interfacing like Hair Canvas, just a good steam would be appropriate. These garments will be dry cleaned anyway.
