Tricot Interlining: Technical Guide, Applications & Full Specification Reference

1. What Is Tricot Interlining?

Tricot interlining belongs to the broader family of woven and knitted interlinings used to reinforce, stabilise, and shape garment panels before or after assembly. Unlike woven interlinings — which derive their structure from interlaced warp and weft threads — tricot base cloths are produced on warp-knitting machines, creating a fine, chain-like loop structure that delivers inherent stretch in both the course and wale directions.

The term tricot derives from the French word for knitting. In textile engineering it refers specifically to a warp-knitted fabric with a characteristically smooth face, fine gauge, and controlled elasticity. When coated with a thermoplastic adhesive (most commonly polyamide, or PA), tricot fabric becomes a fusible interlining that bonds permanently to shell fabrics under heat and pressure.

Circular-knitted variants — sometimes listed as Knitting Series in manufacturer catalogues — share many properties with flat tricot but are produced on circular knitting machines, offering additional uniformity and a tighter, more consistent loop geometry. Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) offers both a dedicated Tricot Series and a Knitting Series, each engineered for distinct weight and elasticity profiles.

2. Yarn Selection & Fabric Construction

2.1 Low-Elastic Semi-Gloss DTY

The base yarn used in UBL's Knitting Series is low-elastic semi-gloss Draw Textured Yarn (DTY) — a textured polyester filament produced by simultaneously drawing and false-twisting partially oriented yarn (POY). The "semi-gloss" finish is achieved through a controlled texturising tension that retains moderate lustre without the full brightness of bright-trilobal polyester. This finish is important for interlining applications because it prevents light reflection from showing through lighter-weight shell fabrics.

DTY deniers used across the Knitting Series range from 30D to 200D, directly influencing fabric weight (28 g/m² at 30D through to 130 g/m² at 200D) and the resulting hand feel of the finished garment panel.

2.2 Circular Knitting Process

Circular knitting produces a seamless tubular fabric in which yarn loops are formed continuously around a rotating cylinder of latch needles. The absence of selvedge tension — common in flat warp-knitting — results in a more isotropic loop geometry. This means the fabric stretches predictably in all directions, a critical requirement when the interlining must follow the drape of an elastic outer fabric without distorting collar stands, sleeve caps, or waistbands.

After knitting, the tubular fabric is slit and heat-set to stabilise dimensions before entering the dyeing and finishing lines.

2.3 High-Temperature Dyeing & Heat Setting

Polyester knitted base cloths are dyed in jet-dyeing machines at temperatures of 130 °C under pressure. High-temperature dyeing achieves full penetration of disperse dyes into the polyester filament core, yielding excellent wash fastness (typically ISO 4 or above) and light fastness. The subsequent heat-setting step relaxes residual yarn tensions and fixes the dimensional stability of the fabric before coating.

3. Double-Dot Coating Technology & PA Adhesive

The defining characteristic of a high-performance fusible interlining is its adhesive system. UBL's Knitting Series employs the double-dot (or bi-dot) coating method with high-performance PA (polyamide) adhesive powder. Understanding this process helps garment technologists select the correct interlining and set accurate fusing parameters.

3.1 How Double-Dot Coating Works

In conventional single-dot coating, adhesive paste is printed directly onto the base cloth surface in a regular dot pattern. In the double-dot process, a first layer of paste (typically a lower-melt polymer) is applied, partially cured, and then a second layer of PA powder is scattered and locked into the first layer. The result is a raised dot with a hard outer shell of PA resin sitting on a soft anchoring base. This architecture offers two key advantages:

• Prevention of strike-through: The two-layer structure reduces the risk of adhesive migrating through fine shell fabrics during fusing, preventing surface staining.
• Superior wash durability: The mechanical interlocking of PA particles within the anchor paste produces a bond that resists delamination through repeated laundering far better than single-layer systems.

3.2 PA Adhesive Chemistry

Polyamide (PA) adhesives — commonly nylon copolymers — are the industry standard for fusible interlinings used in dry-cleaned and machine-washed outerwear. Key properties include a melting onset in the range of 110–140 °C, high peel strength once fused, and resistance to both hydrocarbon dry-cleaning solvents and aqueous washing cycles. Compared with polyethylene (PE) adhesives, PA systems offer superior peel strength at lower temperatures and better compatibility with stretch fabrics, making them the natural choice for tricot and knitted base cloths.

4. Full Product Specifications

The table below reproduces the complete specification range for UBL's Knitting Series as published on the manufacturer's product page. All items share a 100% polyester base cloth with a double-dot PA coating at a standard width of 60 inches (approx. 152 cm). Fusing conditions listed are recommended starting points; garment technologists should always conduct trial fusing on the actual shell fabric and machine before production.

5. Weight Selection Guide by Garment Component

Selecting the correct interlining weight is one of the most critical decisions in garment engineering. Too light and the panel lacks definition; too heavy and the composite becomes stiff, reducing comfort and drape. The following table maps typical garment components to recommended weight ranges within the Knitting Series.

6. Fusing Process: Parameters & Best Practices

Achieving a consistent, durable bond requires careful control of three variables — temperature, time, and pressure — often called the "fusing triangle." For the Knitting Series, the recommended window is 120–140 °C for 12–15 seconds at 1.5–2.5 kg/cm².

6.1 Temperature

The fusing temperature must be high enough to melt the PA adhesive dots (onset typically around 110 °C) but below the temperature at which the shell fabric risks heat damage or glaze. For polyester shells the upper limit is usually 150 °C; for wool-rich fabrics it is often lower. Thermostatic calibration of the fusing press should be verified at least weekly using fusing test strips.

6.2 Dwell Time

Dwell time controls how long the adhesive remains molten and under pressure, allowing it to wet-out and mechanically interlock with the shell fabric yarns. At the lower end of the temperature window (120 °C), a dwell of 15 seconds is advisable; at 135–140 °C, 12 seconds typically suffices. Excessively long dwell times at high temperatures risk strike-through on fine, open-weave shells.

6.3 Pressure

Pressure ensures intimate contact between adhesive dots and shell yarns during the molten phase. For lightweight knitted shells (jersey, ponte), the lower end of the pressure range (1.5 kg/cm²) prevents excessive compaction of the shell pile. For densely woven outer fabrics (gabardine, twill), pressures toward 2.5 kg/cm² improve adhesive penetration and peel strength.

7. Garment Applications & Industry Use Cases

The Knitting Series is engineered for a wide range of applications. Its elastic base structure makes it uniquely suited to garments where rigidity would compromise fit or wearer comfort. Key application categories include:

8. Tricot vs. Other Interlining Types: A Technical Comparison

9. Sustainability Considerations

The garment industry's shift toward more responsible sourcing has placed interlining selection under greater scrutiny. UBL's 100% polyester Knitting Series offers several practical sustainability attributes: it is free from natural animal fibres (relevant for vegan certification programmes), and its durable PA adhesion system reduces the likelihood of delamination — a common cause of garment failure and premature disposal.

For brands requiring certified recycled content, UBL also offers a GRS Recycled Interlining range that meets the Global Recycled Standard. Alternatively, the Enzyme Wash Interlining Series and Special Stitch Nonwoven Series address specific finishing and performance requirements in environmentally sensitive product lines.

10. About Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) Interlining Co., Ltd

Headquartered in Jiashan County, Jiaxing, Zhejiang, China — a region historically central to China's textile manufacturing cluster — Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) operates factories in both Zhejiang and Jiangxi provinces, and maintains an overseas presence through a partner facility in Dhaka, Bangladesh (Leaf Apparel Solutions GA 126, Badda Link Road, Dhaka-1212). This multi-site manufacturing footprint enables the company to serve export customers in Asia, Europe, and the Americas with competitive lead times.

The company's production advantages include in-house quality assurance at every stage of the manufacturing process — from yarn inspection and knitting through dyeing, coating, and finished-roll inspection — supported by an experienced technical and cooperative team. UBL's product portfolio spans woven, non-woven, tricot/knitting, hair canvas, and needle punch felt interlinings, providing a single-source solution for garment manufacturers with diverse product ranges.

For procurement enquiries, technical samples, or customised specifications, the UBL sales team can be reached through the contact page or directly by email at ubl@hzubl.com. Additional industry resources and product updates are published regularly in the Industry News and Company News sections of the website.