Among the many interlining types used in modern garment construction, Special Stitch Nonwoven Interlining occupies a distinct position — combining the structural integrity of stitched non-woven fabric with the precision of advanced fusible coating technology. This guide breaks down the engineering, specifications, applications, and selection criteria for the Series F range produced by Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) Interlining Co., Ltd.
Conventional non-woven interlining is manufactured by bonding fibers through chemical, thermal, or mechanical means — without weaving or knitting. Special stitch nonwoven interlining takes this further by adding a stitch-bonding layer that runs through the base web, dramatically improving tensile strength in the warp direction while preserving the lightweight, cost-effective nature of a non-woven substrate.
The result is a material that behaves almost like a woven fabric in terms of strength and dimensional stability, yet remains considerably thinner and more uniform — ideal for modern fusing presses operating at controlled temperatures and pressures.
Why stitch-bonding matters: In pure needle-punched or thermally bonded non-wovens, warp strength is often the weakest axis. Stitch bonding introduces polyester yarns that lock fibers in the machine direction, reducing elongation under stress and resisting distortion during pressing — a critical requirement for structured outerwear panels.
The Series F Special Interlining is offered in three distinct fiber compositions, each tuned for a different performance and cost profile:
| Composition Code | Nylon Content | Polyester Content | Key Characteristic |
|---|---|---|---|
| 88-series (SD88xx) | 80% | 20% | Softer hand feel, superior drape, preferred for lightweight suiting |
| 85-series (SD85xx) | 50% | 50% | Balanced strength-to-cost ratio, broad fabric compatibility |
| 80-series (SD80xx) | 0% | 100% | Maximum dimensional stability, lowest cost, excellent for outerwear |
The stitch yarn — running through all variants — is 100% polyester, chosen for its thermal stability and low shrinkage under heat, properties essential when interlining is fused to delicate face fabrics.
Each composition is available across three weight classes: 35 g/m² (light), 40 g/m² (medium), and 45 g/m² (medium-heavy). Width runs from 36 to 80 inches, accommodating both narrow and wide-width cutting tables.
The "FK" suffix variants within each product code indicate a softer finish treatment — typically preferred when the interlining must bond to delicate silks, lightweight cotton, or fine polyester-viscose blends where a harder finish could cause surface strike-through or handle stiffness.
All Series F products use advanced double-dot PA coating — a two-layer adhesive application system that distinguishes high-performance fusible interlinings from basic single-coat alternatives.
In single-dot coating, adhesive powder is deposited once onto the substrate. In double-dot coating, a base dot of adhesive is applied first, followed by a second, finer dot layer on top. This arrangement produces several measurable advantages:
| Property | Single-Dot Coating | Double-Dot Coating (Series F) |
|---|---|---|
| Adhesion uniformity | Moderate — dependent on powder settling | High — layered application ensures even spread |
| Bond strength after washing | Adequate for casual wear | Strong — withstands repeated dry and wet cleaning |
| Fabric strike-through risk | Higher at elevated temperatures | Lower — base layer acts as barrier |
| Hand feel after fusing | Can feel stiffer | Softer and more flexible |
| Breathability | Slightly reduced | Better preserved due to controlled dot size |
The screen mesh used to apply the adhesive — rated at 90 CP for 35 g/m² variants and 70 CP for 40–45 g/m² variants — controls the size and density of each adhesive dot. A finer mesh (higher CP value) produces smaller, more densely packed dots suited to lighter fabrics; a coarser mesh deposits larger dots appropriate for heavier substrates that require stronger anchoring.
The adhesive used in Series F is a polyamide (PA) hot-melt powder. Polyamide adhesives are widely regarded as the gold standard in fusible interlining coatings due to several intrinsic properties:
| Property | Performance Note |
|---|---|
| Activation temperature range | 120–150 °C — compatible with most fusing press settings |
| Flexibility after bonding | Excellent — remains pliable, does not crack under repeated bending |
| Dry-cleaning resistance | High — PA chains are resistant to common dry-cleaning solvents |
| Water-washing resistance | Good — suitable for machine wash cycles when properly fused |
| Aging resistance | Stable — resists yellowing and embrittlement over time |
| Adhesion to natural fibers | Strong — bonds well to cotton, wool, and silk |
| Adhesion to synthetic fibers | Strong — bonds well to polyester, nylon, and blends |
Compared to polyethylene (PE) or EVA-based adhesives, PA powder delivers superior wash-fastness and remains stable across a wider temperature range — making it the preferred choice for structured outerwear and tailored garments where interlining performance must persist over the garment's full service life.
| Product Code | Weight (g/m²) | Width | Composition | Stitch Yarn | Coating | Mesh (CP) | Fusing Temp. | Time (s) | Pressure (kg/cm²) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SD8820F | 35 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8820FK | 35 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8825F | 40 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8825FK | 40 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8830F | 45 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8830FK | 45 | 36"–80" | 80% Nylon / 20% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8520F | 35 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8520FK | 35 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8525F | 40 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8525FK | 40 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8530F | 45 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8530FK | 45 | 36"–80" | 50% Nylon / 50% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8020F | 35 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8020FK | 35 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 90 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8025F | 40 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8025FK | 40 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8030F | 45 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
| SD8030FK | 45 | 36"–80" | 100% Polyester | 100% Polyester | Double-dot PA | 70 | 120–140 °C | 12–15 | 1.5–2.5 |
Note: Due to the wide variety of fabrics used in the garment industry, UBL recommends conducting a fusing compatibility test between the interlining, target fabric, and fusing machine before committing to bulk production.
Series F is engineered for structured, high-wear garment components where dimensional stability and bonding durability are non-negotiable. Its compatibility spans silk, cotton, polyester-cotton, polyester-viscose, chemical fibers, and wool — covering the majority of outer-shell fabrics used in structured tailoring.
| Garment Component | Function of Interlining | Suggested Weight | Preferred Composition |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front panel | Structural support, shape retention | 40–45 g/m² | SD85xx / SD80xx |
| Collar & lapel | Crisp edge definition, roll control | 35–40 g/m² | SD88xx (soft hand) |
| Sleeve & cuff | Stability, prevent stretching at seams | 35 g/m² | SD88xx FK / SD85xx FK |
| Waistband | Firm support, prevent rolling | 45 g/m² | SD80xx (high stability) |
| Placket | Flat lay, button-hole reinforcement | 35–40 g/m² | SD85xx / SD88xx |
| Pocket & reinforcement | Durability at high-stress points | 40–45 g/m² | SD80xx / SD85xx |
Beyond suit interlinings, the Series F range is widely used in overcoat interlinings, trench coat interlinings, and structured windbreakers — garment categories that demand both stiffness and longevity.
Correct fusing is as critical as the interlining specification itself. Even the best-engineered interlining will underperform if fusing parameters are set incorrectly. The following guidelines apply to Series F across all variants:
| Parameter | Recommended Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 120–140 °C | Lower end for silk and lightweight synthetics; upper end for wool and cotton |
| Dwell time | 12–15 seconds | Longer times may be needed for dense or multi-layer panels |
| Pressure | 1.5–2.5 kg/cm² | Even pressure distribution critical — check platen calibration regularly |
| Cooling | Full cool before handling | Disturbing the bond before cooling causes adhesive migration and weak spots |
| Pre-shrinkage | Recommended for face fabrics | Pre-shrinking reduces post-production puckering, especially in wool blends |
UBL's product portfolio covers woven, non-woven, and specialty interlinings. Understanding where Series F fits helps buyers select the right material for each project:
| Category | Construction | Typical Use Case | Series F Advantage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Woven Interlining | Woven base fabric | High-end suiting, luxury tailoring | Lower cost; uniform weight distribution |
| Standard Non-woven | Thermally bonded web | Casual wear, lining reinforcement | Superior warp strength via stitch-bonding |
| Special Stitch Nonwoven (Series F) | Stitch-bonded non-woven | Structured outerwear, coats, suits | High strength + low shrinkage + double-dot PA |
| Enzyme Wash Interlining | Enzyme-treated woven | Denim, washed garments | Softer handle, wash-worn aesthetics |
| Hair Canvas Interlining | Woven with horsehair | Bespoke tailoring, jacket chests | Machine-compatible; consistent fusing |
| GRS Recycled Interlining | Recycled fiber base | Sustainable fashion collections | Conventional PA performance without GRS certification cost |
Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) Interlining Co., Ltd operates manufacturing facilities across two locations in China — Jiashan County, Zhejiang and Wannian County, Jiangxi — as well as an overseas operation in Dhaka, Bangladesh, serving global apparel supply chains with reduced lead times.
The company's quality assurance process covers incoming raw materials, in-line production checks, and finished goods testing, with particular attention to bonding strength, heat shrinkage, and wash-fastness — the three properties most critical to structured garment performance. Their production process is designed for both high-volume OEM orders and smaller custom runs, making UBL equally accessible to large garment factories and independent fashion brands.
For buyers evaluating petticoat interlinings or any specialty construction requirement, UBL's technical sales team provides specification sheets, sample swatches, and fusing trial support before any order commitment.
